LOCATION
Located at the
most southern end of South
Sulawesi, this quiet and now isolated island of Selayar, with its
swathes of pristine white sand beaches and crystal clear tropical waters used
to have an illustrious past.
Ancient
Javanese writings in the Nagara
Kertagama mention
that in the 14th century there was already a thriving kingdom on Selayar. This
pre-Islamic kingdom seemed to have been a hub of trade, visited by merchants
from China, the Philippines and Thailand, having left evidence of its existence
in the many precious artifacts excavated here. Most notable is the beautiful Dongson Kettledrum, the largest in the world, that is said to be 2,000 years old dating
back to the Bronze Age. Other artifacts include delicate Chinese and
Sawankholok (Thai) porcelain, which were found in abundance on the island.
Islam seems to have entered Selayar in the 16th century spread by followers of
the Sultan of Ternate, in Maluku.
In the 16th
century Salayar was fought over for its blue-white cotton products, a favorite
in the archipelago. And when the Dutch won hegemony over Selayar, they
monopolized the cotton trade, forcing Selayar to send the cotton only to Fort Rotterdam in Makassar. However today, with modern fabrics
the popularity of cotton waned and the people of Salayar were forced to return
to living from coconut produce, relegating the island to its present isolation.
Due to the
geographical shape and location of Selayar, standing vertical on the Makassar –
Moluccas trade route, - when Ternate , Tidore, Ambon and Banda were the main producers of spices and Makassar was the center of
trade, - the island of Selayar became an undisputable important territory that
could either contribute to or hinder the spice trade.
The 80 km. long
island of Selayar is in fact gateway to the spectacular Taka Bonerate National Park that teems with colorful coral reefs, giant sponges, a wealth of fish
species including dugongs and tuna, gliding past turtles and manta rays.
Comprising 21 islands and atolls, Taka Bonerate is the third biggest atoll in
the world after the Marshall Islands and the Maldives. Although still
predominantly covered by rainforests, Selayar boasts many pristine white sand
beaches
The largest
town on the island is called Benteng,
a bustling little town of motorbikes and trishaws. The town center is the
“alun-alun” , the town square, where on one side still stands a solid old
prison built by the Dutch in the 1890s. The square is the focal point of
celebrations and events happening on the island.
For more
detailed information you can log on to the website of The Culture and Tourism
Office of Selayar Regency at www.selayartourism.com.
The web lists
hotels, guesthouses, cottages and home-stays in Benteng. The friendly staff can
also arrange a tour guide, liaise with SMAC air, arrange traditional wooden
boat trips and recommend restaurants. Most speak English.
Get There
To get to
Selayar you can travel overland from Makassar to the town of Tanjung Bira, and
take the ferry to Selayar from here. The sea journey takes two hours. But when
the seas are choppy, ferries donot sail.
There are air
conditioned buses from Makassar, leaving at 9.0 am and arriving at Benteng at
07.30 pm travelling via Bira, where the ferry carries passengers and bus to
Salayar.
Alternatively,
you can try the SMAC charter flights from Makassar to Selayar, that flies here
three times weekly,on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays, although its schedule
is quite sporadic. The flight takes 40 minutes.
USEFULCONTACTS:
SMAC Office in Selayar : +62 414 21361, or +62 81355222282
Selayar Airport : +62 414 2700099, or +62 85242016932
It is recommended to make your travel arrangements through bona fide travel agents in Makassar, your Selayar Hotel and Dive Sites or the Selayar Regency Culture and Tourist Office.
SMAC Office in Selayar : +62 414 21361, or +62 81355222282
Selayar Airport : +62 414 2700099, or +62 85242016932
It is recommended to make your travel arrangements through bona fide travel agents in Makassar, your Selayar Hotel and Dive Sites or the Selayar Regency Culture and Tourist Office.
TO DO
This secluded
tropical paradise offers a number of splendid, secluded white sandy beaches.
The Baloiya
Beach stretches
some 3 km along the coast. From here you can see tarsiers and wild boars
amongst the dense foliage of the forest. The Selayar Diver Resort offers
cottages and facilities for divers. Other beaches are thePinang
Beach, some 80 minutes from Benteng or the Je’neiya Beach, some 60 minutes
from the town of Benteng.
Besides diving
and snorkeling among the colorful reefs and underwater life of Taka Bonerate
(for more information see “Taka Bonerate National Park), the island of Selayar
offers a number of outstanding attractions to visit and see.
The Dongson
Kettledrum is the star
attraction here. Excavated in the 17th century, this large and beautifully
decorated Dongson kettledrum is from the Bronze Age and estimated to be around
2,000 years old. Found in Papalahoia, which was the seat of 14th century
pre-historic Selayar kingdoms.
The kettledrum
is now stored at Bontobangun, some 3 km. south of Benteng in what is described
as a “one room museum”. The museum must be opened with a special key that can
be obtained through your local guide.
The large
Dongson drum, said to be the largest in the world, stands 95 cm high and has a
diameter of 115 cm. On the top is a large star with 16 points and 4 stylized
frogs. Its sides have four handles, in pairs of two. Decorations along its side
cover three bands: at the bottom are etched elephants, birds and coconut trees,
the center band are abstract motives, and the top depicts peacocks.
Besides the
Dongson drum, this one-room museum also has remnants of ancient ships. There is
the head of the naga (dragon) that is 110 cm. high, has wings, head and a tail
which is 150 cm. long, made in the Majapahit style. There is also an “anjungan”
the platform where the captain of the ship gives his orders to the crew. An
16th century Arabic inscription mentions : “Sultan Abd al-Malik, Tuban”. Tuban
is a port in East Java, which was the main harbor during the time of the
Majapahit kingdom.
Not far from
here is the Fortress
of Gantarang. Gatarang was one of the strongest pre-Islamic
kingdoms, who built this fortress to ward invaders from Ternate and Buton.
TO STAY
Here are a number of beach resorts on the island:
Selayar Island Resort
Baloyia Beach on the Baloiya road at km 10 from Benteng
website :www.selayarislandresort.com
The resort offers beachfront bungalows and access to 50 world-class dive sites, sloops and walls
website :www.selayarislandresort.com
The resort offers beachfront bungalows and access to 50 world-class dive sites, sloops and walls
Selayar Eco Resort
Pinang Beach, Selayar
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